How Do You Sew 4-Way Stretch Fabric?
Stretchy fabrics of any kind can be tricky to sew, especially if you’ve never used them before. You will need to use certain tools and settings to sew with them effectively. Even using the right methods, it may take a few tries to learn how to do it correctly and make your projects look perfect. But, here are some tips to help you out.
Pre-Wash the Fabric
One of the first things you’ll want to do before sewing 4-way stretch fabric is wash and dry it. Knit fabrics can stretch after the first wash, especially if they are made with fabrics such as cotton or rayon. You don’t want your finished project to be a different size than you intended if you wait to wash it afterward. Even if the fabric is made from polyester and spandex that isn’t as prone to shrinking, you still want to wash it first to remove any chemicals that may be on the fabric.
Cut the Fabric
Knit fabrics can also be more tricky to cut than woven fabrics. You’ll still want to fold in it half by bringing the selvages together, but you’ll find that the fold doesn’t always line up straight with the grain of the fabric. Double-check this and adjust the fold if necessary to ensure that the grain and edges line up straight. Then, lay a cutting mat down and place the fabric on top. Use a tracing wheel to trace any cuts before actually cutting them. Make sure that you don’t stretch the fabric when cutting it.
Use a Ballpoint Needle
A ballpoint needle is a specialized type of needle designed for sewing knit fabrics, which is what most stretch fabrics are. A ballpoint needle has a rounded tip. The rounded tip allows the needle to pass through the knitted threads to separate them without causing damage. If you don’t use a ballpoint needle and use a needle with a regular point instead, it could cause damage to the fabric and cause it to curl.
Use Polyester Thread
You’ll want to use polyester thread instead of cotton when sewing knit and stretchy fabrics because it has more stretch and give to it than cotton does. That means that when the fabric of the finished project stretches, the thread will stretch some instead of breaking. The polyester thread also tends to have a waxy finish on it, which enables it to slip through the fabric more easily than cotton thread does.
Use a Zig Zag Stitch
When sewing stretchy fabric, you’ll also want to use a zig-zag stitch instead of a straight stitch. A zig-zag stitch is stronger and won’t come out as the fabric stretches the way that a straight stitch will. A narrow zig-zag stitch is the best to use, with the stitch length the same as the stitch width. Make sure that you don’t stretch the fabric when sewing it.
Make Sure the Edges Don’t Curl
Stretch fabrics of any kind have a tendency for the edges to curl when you sew them using a sewing machine. Pay attention as you’re sewing to make sure that the edges don’t curl, as this can affect your stitch. If you notice that the edges are curling, stop sewing and press the edges with an iron to get them to lay flat again. Make sure to use a warm iron setting so that you don’t damage the fabric.